Byrdie Couture

Fall Capsule Release 1 Callahan, Laura, Emmie, Elliot

2020-10-21T20:39:00.:00

I'm excited to finally be able to show off part of my Fall/Winter 2020 capsule! I wanted to be able to demonstrate the versatility of the pieces, so needed to wait until several pieces were done. My plan is a 15 piece capsule. Today I have 2 tops and 2 bottoms that I can mix and match to make 4 outfits! Our Winter months are very mild in the hot desert land of Phoenix, so there isn't a need for anything extremely heavy. But I will be adding in some layers.

First up is the Callahan pants by Seamwork patterns. Gosh I love these pants. This is actually me second pair. I made my first pair in a gray twill and posted them to instagram, but they didn't make it on the blog. The Callahan is a high waisted, wide leg pant with a fly zipper. Both the front and back legs have a pintuck detail. They are surpisingly easy to make. If you are new to zipper flys, the instructions are really great. I made a 14. My first pair was a little too tight around my upper thigh. I added 1/4" inch to each inner thigh piece (where they come together to join the crotch), and graded out a smidge in the hip area. I used a rust colored corduroy, I'm not sure where I got it from. Both the color and the corduroy are Fall essentials! And although rust isn't traditionally a neutral, I behaves as one when I mix it with other items.

Next up is the Elliot Sweater by Helen's Closet. This pattern features raglan sleeves along with different neckline and hem options. I chose the cropped version with the cowl neck. I knew the cropped version would look fab with the high waisted trend. The fabric is a black waffle knit from Fabric.com. I made a size 16/18 without adjustment. I sewed it all on the serger and coverstitch machine in about 90 minutes. This top is a wardrobe staple and I would love to make another couple of versions in some ribbed knit.

My Elliot Sweater also pairs nicely with the Seamwork Laura Skirt. The Laura skirt was released several months ago and I've never thought much about it. However, in putting together my capsule, I went back through the Seamwork catelog and realized this would not only pair well with multiple pieces, but would be a perfect match for this light blue Tencel fabric I've had in my stash. Fabric is from Joann. I made my typical 14. The waistline is easy to fit considering it is a wrap style. And in true Seamwork fashion, it was an easy make. It is cut on the bias. One tip that I utilized that Seamwork does not mention, is that you need to hang the garment for 24 hours prior to hemming. The bias fabric will stretch as it hangs, causing an uneven hem. By letting it hang, you can true up the hem prior to putting in those final stitches.

And finally I have the Emmie Top also by Seamwork. I don't think I've met a peasant blouse I don't like. What makes this one special is the elasticized neckline with hook and eye closures, and the billowing sleeves. I used this floaty rayon voile from La Finch fabrics. I made a 14, no adjustments to the sizing. Don't let the frills and gathers intimidate you, again they are easy to do following Seamwork's instructions.

That's it for now, I'm plugging away at the rest of my capsule along with a few one-off projects. And then comes the sewing for the holiday season (mixed emotions about that one).

Until next time!

~Jenny

Simplicity 8834

2020-08-10T20:06:00.:00

I fell in love with this zebra print rayon challis from lafinchfabrics.com. I snapped up one of their great deals on an end of the bolt piece. I wasn't quite sure what I wanted it to be made into at the time. I settled on Simplicity 8834. I love the tie front and faux wrap skirt of view C.

I made a size 20, using my measurements and doing a tissue fitting beforehand. Word to the wise- view C is very short! I am 5' 3" and most often shorten the length of garments. However, I added 3 inches to this. It's a bit tedious because of the curved shape of the wrap, but well worth it to get it to my preferred below the knee length.

This uses an invisible zipper. I'm not new to these and have sewn them in for many years. However, I could never get a smooth finish at the end of the zipper. There is almost always a bump or jag where the zipper ends and the seam is sewn shut. I learned about Kenneth King's invisible zipper technique available on YouTube. It requires a few more minutes of time but results in a perfectly smooth seam!

I am very happy with how this turned out! It's light and flowy, perfect for the Summer. When the cooler months arrive, this will look great with a denim jacket or cardigan and some booties!

~Jenny

Dawn Jeans and Arisu Top

2020-05-13T12:06:00.:00

Hello there! This week, I've got 2 new me-mades to share. First up is for my latest knitting project. I don't think I've shared much of my knitting on the blog yet. I learned to knit in 2019 by reading a book and watching some Youtube videos to figure things out. It's quickly become a new obsession, second only to my sewing. I'm drawn to lace patterns. I love the design elements and it's a fun departure from simply knitting in the round. This is my 3rd knitted garment. I made my first top earlier in the year, followed by a top for my daughter. I used the Arisu top pattern. I live in the hot climate of Phoenix and was drawn to the Spring/Summer style and lace details. I was expecting a challenge but the lacy leaf print was surprisingly easy to follow. I am proud to say that I didn't have to tink or frog back any rows on this project! Usually, I cannot say that. I used this lovely merino wool/alpaca/acrylic blend from Universal Yarn in the color Jam. Although there is wool in the content, it is soft and lightweight. I just love how this turned out. It is a slightly cropped style and looks great with high-waist pants.

Next up is my new Dawn Jeans! I purchased this white, non-stretch denim from Blackbird Fabrics. I also purchased one of their jeans hardware kits for the zipper, buttons and rivets. White is a bold choice for me, I've never had white jeans. But I think they look great in Spring/Summer. According to my measurements, I would fall into the size 16 in the Dawn Jeans. I just got the straight-size pattern, not the curvy. I cut an 18, thinking that I could take them in here and there if needed (I'm too lazy for a muslin). They sewed up easily. The instructions are well illustrated. I did do a zip fly instead of the button-fly and Megan has a nice tutorial for that online. The hips were too small for me, I let them out 1/4" each side which was perfect. The waist fits great. I don't quite have a C.T., but my nether regions are hugged a little more tightly then I would like. For my next pair, I think I will do a thick thigh adjustment, which should give me some extra crotch room. I'm not sold on the length, I think they need to be a bit shorter but my husband talked me into keeping them long. I used a white, heavyweight topstitching thread. Overall, I'm pleased with them. I do want to make 2-3 pairs of shorts with the same pattern and will be making the above adjustments next time.

~Jenny

Seamwork Rhett and Lito

2020-05-06T20:56:00.:00

Hello there! This week I am sharing my Seamwork Rhett jacket and Lito dress. Not one to sew for the seasons, my Rhett is done, right in time for a record 106 degrees today! I'm not off season, I'm just planning for my 2020 Fall and Winter wardrobe, right? My Lito dress can be worn all Summer long!

Let's start with the Lito dress. This pattern is a simple, easy to throw on and go, dress. The original version is an above the knee version with sporty looking neckline and sleeve bands. I sewed up the bonus version, which gives this softer look. It has a scoop neckline and the length is below the knee with a lovely curved hem. I used a cotton spandex printed knit from Joann Fabrics. I've had it in my stash for about 3 years. I loved the print but couldn't figure out what to make it into. I instantly thought of it when I saw this pattern. I made a 14, without any changes. I sewed up the seams with my serger and sewed the hems with my coverstitch machine. It took less than 2 hours. Nothing earth-shattering here. It is a quick and easy project and I love the finished look! I'm thinking that this would be great for some nightshirts, cut about 12 inches shorter.

The jacket is the Rhett pattern. I got this vibrant mustard denim from a local fabric swap. I instantly fell in love with the color and had my eyes on it, eagerly awaiting my turn to grab a piece of fabric at the swap. Luckily, I didn't have to fight anyone for it. I am so not a pattern hacker. I am a boring, sew it as it looks, kind of girl- not including the occasional length changes. But I really loved the suggested hacks Seamwork included for the Rhett, and I used 2 of them. The instructions were very straightforward and easy to follow. I made a back yoke and center back pleat. I love the little bit of room this gives in the back. I added hidden front pockets! These were trickier but worked out just fine by following the instructions. I cut and sewed a 14. I ran out of fabric and shortened the sleeves by 3 inches. They turned out to be full length sleeves still (this may mean you might want to check the length before you cut)! This was a longer project, taking about 5 hours. I topstitched with a heavy-duty thread. I love the end look. The mustard fabric is a stretch for me, not a color I would normally wear, but it is a nice change of pace.

*I am a Seamwork Ambassador! In exchange for a complimentary year long membership, I have agreed to sew and post 10 patterns. Reviews and opinions are my own.

~Jenny

Seamwork Lyle

2020-05-01T12:00:00.:00

Today is May 1st which means that Seamwork Magazine is releasing 2 more patterns to their collection. It's also the beginning of a little thing known as Me-Made-May! What will be your pledge for the month of May? Funny fact- I've never officially participated in Me Made May. I love the concept but it's a lot of work to take pictures and create posts! I haven't been able to commit yet. Maybe this year will be the year.

In March, I learned I was selected to be a Seamwork ambassador! I am really excited to be a part of the team. In exchange for a complimentary membership for one year, I have agreed to sew at least 10 patterns. Reviews and opinions are my own. In fact, they welcome my constructive feedback. One of the perks is that I get to view the upcoming patterns ahead of the release date. That's why I was able to get a head start on this.

This dress is the Lyle pattern by Seamwork, one of the two patterns released this month. It is a maxi-length dress featuring a boatneck and curved hem. It is made for knit fabrics.

I used a geometric navy and white ITY print from SAS Fabrics, a fabric mecca in Arizona. It's been in my stash for several months. An ITY jersey is lightweight and breathable. It has a lovely drape.

I cut a size 14 according to my measurements. I shortened the dress by 3 inches for more of a midi-length. I carry my extra weight in my abdomen. I wanted the dress to skim my midsection, not cling to it, so I added some width in the side seams. I added 1/2 inch to each side seam, for a total of 2 inches extra around the midsection. If you have a slimmer abdomen compared to the rest of your body, you can probably get away without doing this.

I used my serger and coverstitch machine to sew this together. It took me about 2 hours total.

Hemming knits on a machine can be fiddly, even with a coverstitch. One thing I've always done to improve the look of my hems on knit pieces is to stabilize the hem with strips of interfacing. I did this even when all I had was a standard straight stitch machine. I really like this product from SewKeysE. This is the extremely fine fusible stay tape. I use it to stabilize hems, shoulder seams and zipper insertion areas. I used the 5/8 inch width for this dress, but it comes in thicker widths for different projects. It stabilizes the hem and makes it much easier to stitch.

I sewed a matching fabric tie to add some definition to my high waist. I simply cut a 6 inch strip, the length of my fabric. I folded it in half, stitched it together with a 1/4" seam allowance and left an opening to turn.

This was fast and easy and I really like the finished look. I live in the Phoenix area and it is already sweltering hot. This is the perfect dress to throw on to look put together while staying comfortable.

~Jenny

Colette Anise Jacket

2020-01-31T12:27:00.:00

Making a wool peacoat has been on my ultimate sewing list for quite some time. I've had this black wool coating from moodfabrics.com for at least 4 years, probably more. I took a long time to settle on just the right style of peacoat to fit my taste. The Anise jacket was not first on my list. I actually found a style I really wanted on Burdastyle.com. However, when I was ready to download the pattern and get started, the 2019 Burda Style Cluster-eff occurred. At that time, Burda Style transitioned to a new web site manager and customers were not able to download nor purchase patterns for weeks. The Anise was a close second to my first choice and was available for "free" with my Seamwork subscription.

Aside from the wool coating, I used a muslin interlining, and a polyester charmeuse from my stash. I went on a hunt for the perfect buttons and found these interesting silver buttons on Mood Fabrics. I used a horsehair interfacing.

I cut a size 14. My measurements would put me in a 16, but I find that Seamwork has quite a bit of ease in their patterns. Although I didn't make a muslin, I fit as I went and this worked out well.

As for the construction, it is time consuming, but not difficult. Colette includes detailed instructions with their patterns, and the Anise has a sew-along, with even more detail (just Google it). I did bound buttonholes, really not as difficult as they look!

I padstitched the undercollar, which ensures your collar has a nice turn and lays correctly. I used the serpentine stitch on my machine to create the underlining, a technique I borrowed from Kenneth King.

Instead of installing the lining as directed, I used the bag method. The Colette instructions would cause much more hand stitching and a not so clean inside, IMO. I followed the Threads Magazine tutorial to bag my lining. It is easy and creates a cleaner inside. Also, much less hand sewing!

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The jacket is gorgeous! I am loving the details I spent extra time on, such as the bound buttonholes. This jacket is timeless and I know I will enjoy it for years.

By the way, I finished this just in time for 70 degree weather in Phoenix! I might be great at sewing by will never be great at sewing the right season!

~Jenny

Vogue

2019-11-20T19:41:00.:00

The French jacket has been my ultimate sewing goal for the last several years. In a fashion sense, it instantly levels up any outfit whether it be casual, business, or dressy. In the technical sense, the French jacket forces the maker to slow down and apply advanced techniques and attention to detail. And of course, lots of hand sewing! I didn't have the nerve to try my own hand at it until I came across Angela Wolf's Contemporary Couture Jacket class on Pattern Review. With this class, she demonstrates how to utilize machine sewing to speed up the process while maintaining the hand sewing in key areas. When I initially started the jacket, I was keeping a written tally of the time spent. Unfortunately, I lost the original tally but I estimate 20 hours total.

The pattern is Vogue 8804. I used a loosely woven green tweed. The lining is a floral silk organza. I cut a 16. I made a muslin to start. As many reviews have stated, this pattern is very boxy. I found that most of the ease was in the back and took out about an inch in the center back. I shortened the body by 1 inch.

As for the construction, I ignored the pattern instructions and completely followed Angela Wolf's methods. The body and quilting is done by machine, while the lining is hand sewn together. I made bound buttonholes for the first time. There are lots of online tutorials to be found and I dare say they are not any harder than traditional buttonholes.

My motivation ebbed and flowed during this project, and turned into a UFO for years. I started it in 2015 and 2 sizes ago. I started to hate the green color and I definitely hated the trim I originally picked. I could no longer picture the end look, got frustrated and gave up.

I hated to see the project unfinished and eventually turned to the McCall's Facebook group for suggestions on trim. I'm so glad I did. I got lots of great advice and settled on a cream trim which was far better suited for this color. I even sewed in a chain along the hem.

While I don't love the end result, I enjoyed the process, learned new techniques and am inspired to make different versions. As mentioned, I cut this when I was 2 sizes smaller. With the extra ease, the jacket is wearable but no longer a perfect fit. I'm still not thrilled about the color. I made plenty of mistakes along the way but see them as learning opportunities for my next jacket.

~Jenny

Closet Case Pietra Pant

2019-08-23T14:33:00.:00

When the Rome collection by Closet Case Patterns was released, I immediately scooped up the PDF bundle of the three new designs. I love the relaxed, cool girl vibe of Closet Case and the patterns never disappoint.

My first make from the bundle is the Pietra pants. These pants are high waisted with an elastic back. The front leg is seamed, creating a vertical line. Of course there are pockets! It comes in different lengths and leg widths. I did the tapered leg with the ankle length.

I've had the fabric in my stash for ages and couldn't say where I got it. I do know it's a rayon polyester lycra, one of the best fabrics for slacks in my opinion. The instructions were great, they are well illustrated and thorough. The methid of elastic installation was new to me but went smoothly. I took about 3 inches off the length using the shorten lines on the pattern. My measurements put me in a 16, and that worked great.

The high waisted style is new to me and I may never go back to mid rise styles! The pants stayed right where they needed to, no need to adjust or hike them up during the day. They were perfect for the office and I would like to make another pair in both black and gray.

~Jenny

Colette Moneta

2019-07-26T14:19:00.:00

I am on a roll with Colette and Seamwork patterns. Here is another classi Colette pattern, the Moneta Dress. Just like the Myrtle dress, it was well received by the sewing community. And again, not being one to follow trends, I just made my first version!

I used a chili red cotton spandex knit from girlcharlee.com. I love cotton spandex. It has a nice drape, not too light or too heavy. It rebounds quickly, no saggy knees or booties. I sewed this entirely by my serger, using a 3 thread seam. I used my coverstitch on the neckline, sleeve and bottom hems.

The neckline is simply folded to the inside and stitched in place. Knits can tend to be a little fiddly so to help stabilize the neckline, I fused 1/4 inch webbing to the neckline before folding over. This worked like a charm and gave a nice, smooth result .

I made this in about 2 hours. I did cheat and leave the pockets off to quicken the process.

I love this dress! The bodice is just the right length. If it were any shorter this might turn into a maternity or frumpy look. As is, it is more like a ballerina look, which I love! I wore this to my business-casual office the first time. I can definitely see making more.

~Jenny

Colette Myrtle

2019-07-17T12:00:00.:00

Thank you for your sweet replies on my last post! I'm going to keep the blog going for now and hope to post more faithfully.

I was a member of Seamwork when it first started out. I let it lapse for a few years and resumed a subscription this year. I'm so glad I did! I've discovered that all the original Colette patterns are available to subscribers, you don't have to buy them separately. This is the Colette Myrtle dress. It was all the rage when it first came out. I'm not one to jump on new pattern bandwagon so I've sewed my first one now.

I used a magenta cotton spandex blend from Girl Charlee. I love Girl Charlee for their great prices and quality knits. This is the perfect weight for this dress, not too heavy and a nice drape.

I sewed all of the dress using my serger and cover stitch machine. This made it quick and easy. I like the elastic casing construction. Most patterns would have you sew a seperate strip of fabric or bias tape to create the casing but this one is made using the bodice and skirt seams.

I'm a 16 according to the size chart but find that the 14 works better for me for this brand. I did take the bodice sides in approx 0.5 inches on each side for a better bust fit.

I love the end dress! It is so comfortable to wear yet looks dressed up enough for the office. I could see making another one in black for a LBD.

~Jenny

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs

2019-06-06T19:58:00.:00

I finally jumped on the Burnside Bib train by Sew House Seven! I'm usually not one to sew what everyone else is making in the moment. I have to see it made a few hundred times and mull it over, you know what I mean??

Before I get into that, I've been struggling with the decision to continue blogging or not. To be honest, only a fraction of my makes actually end up here because it's so time consuming. Unfortunately, there are faster paced, easier social media platforms to post on. Sometimes posting here doesn't seem worth the effort. Still, when I'm doing my own research on a pattern or project, I hit up personal blogs to read the ins and outs of other people's experiences. What are your feelings on the "old fashioned" blog? Drop me a line below.

Onto this project. I live in the Hot as Hell city of Phoenix and staying comfortable in the Summer is a must. I love dresses in the Summer so I get a little air up in there. I've had an eye on the Burnside Bibs for a while, but knew that I probably would never wear the full length version- full length overalls are just not my gig. But I knew I would rock them as shorts.

At first I wanted a rayon tencel to make these out of. I love the look and drape of the fabric... the price tag? Not so much. I settle on this rusty orange linen blend from Etsy. I was worried the linen might be a little sheer, but it really isn't once you put them on.

As for the contruction- easy peasy. The instructions were great, especially if you need a little hand holding. I was able to skim most parts and didn't run into any hiccups along the way. I sewed this with my straight stitch machine and finished the edges with my serger to keep the fabric from fraying.

I made no adjustments. I went by the size recommended by my measurements which was a 14. These are nice and roomy and are cinched in with the ties.

That's about it. I have no secret tips to offer. I love them! Sometimes my husband doesn't love the more unique things I make but he really like these. I was afraid he would make fun of the overall look but he didn't. Not that I care too much what he thinks about the things I make :)

~Jenny

Sew Over It Cora Top

2019-03-07T18:50:00.:00

I've had this fabric in my stash for about 3-4 years. I picked it up at an independent fabric shop in Seattle called District Fabrics. It's a polyester crepe (my favorite fabric to sew with). It has a lovely pattern of birds perching on a branch and bright colors. I knew I wanted to make a simple design, I didn't want to get the bird print lost in too many design lines.

When Sew Over It launched the Cora Top, I knew this fabric would be a perfect match for it. I love the loose, breezy look of the Cora Top and pretty pleats.

The Cora Top pdf was nicely laid out, pages matched together perfectly. I cut a US size 16 based on my measurements. No alterations were made. The top was easy to sew up. The instructions are well illustrated. The most tedious part was creating the pleat in front, which is part of the v-neck. But it went smoothly following the directions.

I'm really pleased with this top. I think it was the perfect pattern for my fabric. Also, I really like blouses like this that I can just throw on with a pair of slacks and head off the work in!

~Jenny

French Terry Dress Butterick 6207

2019-02-28T18:06:00.:00

I've been on a dress kick lately! When I saw Butterick 6207, I immediately loved the lay back, cool vibe of the striped dress on the envelope. I used a french terry knit from Koshtex on Etsy. I love the heathered denim blue with white stripe.

I cut the size 20 based off my measurements. Usually I size down but I wanted the extra ease in this. I kept the length as is.

This sewed up quickly on the serger. I used my coverstitch for hems and topstitching.

Not much to say about this one. It's quick and easy. And it feels like I'm wearing pajamas!

~Jenny

Classic Wrap Dress Vogue 8379

2019-02-20T18:49:00.:00

You can never go wrong with a classic wrap dress! It's easy to wear and instantly makes you look put together. This is my third version using good old Vogue 8379. You can see my first version, one of my very first posts, here. And my second version here.

The fabric is this great geometric black and white ITY knit I found on Etsy.

As for changes/adjustments this time around:

I sewed the same size I did my first go around because my tissue is already cut. I am no longer the size I was 10 years ago but this is knit and honestly fits better now that I've put on some weight in different places. If I went by my current measurements, I'd be cutting 2 sizes larger today. This gives you an idea about the ease.

I used clear elastic along the neckline to stabilize.

I interfaced along the front of the dress from the bodice to the hem. The pattern only calls for interfacing in the bodice but I recommend interfacing the self-facing of the skirt as well.

I think that's about it as far as changes. I sewed this almost exclusively on my serger, only using the straight-stitch on the small details like the darts. I was able to get this done in a 4 hour sitting, not including cutting time.

I just can't get enough of these dresses! I just love how easy to wear they are and how instantly stylish they look! I'm sure there will be more versions to come.

~ Jenny

Alberta Street Pencil Skirt by Sew House Seven

2019-02-06T18:34:00.:00

I've been in need of some more work separates, particularly skirts and pants. I've been eyeing patterns for denim skirts for a while and settled on the Sew House Seven Alberta Street Pencil Skirt. The pattern intrigued my because I could use it to put a bit of a twist on the typical denim skirt. I liked the unique pockets and pencil shape.

I used a stretch denim from my stash, not sure of where it originally came from. It is quite stretchy, I'm guessing it has about 3% spandex. I fell in between 2 sizes with my waist and hip measurements and ended up going with the larger of the 2. The pattern warns you that this is designed with negative ease to be form-fitting and to stretch with wear.

The skirt was easy to construct. The instructions were thorough and well illustrated.

Back to that 3% spandex. I wore it to work on the first day. Within a few hours, the skirt had stretched out, gaping at the waistband. It wasn't a good look. I promptly had to unpick the waistband and sides, and took in the skirt an extra 3/4 inch on each side. Much better! It is now form fitting but comfortable. I think you will need to base this off of whether you are working with a stretch fabric or not. Without any stretch, I probably would have been fine, but that extra bit of stretch put me in the next size down.

This was my first Sew House pattern. I thought it was well drafted, instructions were great. I would definitely sew another pattern from them again.

~Jenny

Textured Knit Sweater Simplicity 8738

2019-01-30T15:04:00.:00

While the rest of the country is freezing, I'm sorry (not sorry) to say that sweater weather in my neck of the woods is nearly over. I got this one done in time to get a few wears though before I pack it away until our next cold season.

I used Simplicity 8738 to make this very simple, over sized pullover sweater. The fabric is a gem I came upon at Joann Fabrics. I really should get better about taking pictures of the end of bolts but I don't. I'm not sure about the content but it isn't itchy. I'm assuming it's nearly all acrylic. I really liked the diamond shaped texture. And who doesn't love gray? It goes with everything!

As for construction, I sewed it up quickly on the serger in less than an hour. I sewed the hems down with my newish Janome CoverPro! Woo-woo! I sewed the size recommended by my measurements. I knew I wanted to wear this to the office so I shortened the sleeve length and left off the thumb holes. I also ended up taking a few inches off the length of the sweater itself.

This was a very easy, instantly gratifying project. It is comfortable yet stylish. I received several compliments the first time I wore it!

~Jenny

Wax Print Dress McCalls

2019-01-30T14:51:00.:00

I made this one last year but didn't get to writing a blog post until now. I've been stalking wax print for quite some time. I love the vivid prints and colors! This print is from a shop on Etsy called Tess World Designs. I've had it in my stash for quite some time, trying to think of the perfect garment to make with it.

I finally settled on McCalls 7774, which is a sleeveless sundress with a full skirt. The pattern has some cool design line options. Because my fabric design is the star of the show, I eliminated the bias cut bodice and bottom band- it would just have been lost in the print. I added the little neckline slit, which keeps it from being too Little House on the Prairie Gets Her Wax Print On. I tissue fitted the bodice. The Big 4 always run a little large for me right under the armpits. I took the sides in about 3/4 inch just under the armpit and graded out to my size by the time the bodice hits the skirt. This was a quick and easy make- nothing earth shattering to share.

I love this dress! The print can be a little overwhelming all by itself. I think it has a bit of a laid back, hippie vibe with my Blackwood Cardigan (another one I've yet to blog) and my black booties.

~Jenny

Oversized Sweatshirts McCalls 7688

2019-01-15T19:51:00.:00

I couldn't let my kids have comfy cozy sweatshirts without getting in on the action myself. There are so many choices for french terry prints out there! Check out my previous post for more information on these fabrics.

For my version, I used McCalls 7688. I love the options available for this pattern. For my versions, I went for the simple, classic sweatshirt. Although I usually size down in the Big 4, I really wanted the look of an over sized sweatshirt so went with an XL, normally would have made a L. It turned out over sized, by not overly so. The sleeves are a bit long. I like the look of the dropped shoulders. These went together in about an hour a piece, entirely on the serger.

Keeping it real in these photos. You will usually see me in baggy sweats and tops on cold weekend days with the kids. I would love to look stylish and put together at all times but then again, I just don't have the motivation or energy. What do you like to wear on your days off?

~Jenny

Thread Theory Finlayson

2019-01-06T16:00:00.:00

Five years ago, I made the Albion coat for my husband. It was time to make him something else and I think the Finlayson Sweater from Thread Theory should keep him happy for another five years. One of the reasons I don't sew for him more often is he is a Big and Tall kind of dude. Finding RTW for him is difficult enough. Except for his business casual for work, he likes his comfy-cozy clothes for home and weekend wear. I love the look of the Finlayson- I knew it would fulfill his comfy needs while giving him a bit of style.

As for sizing, his measurements were a bit all over the size chart. I ended up going with the largest of the sizes. I measured some of his RTW tops and sweaters to ensure I had enough length and shoulder width and was surprised to find out that the only change I needed to make was to grade out a bit at the waist. The top is drafted to taper in at the waist, so instead I redrafted the sides to extend straight down, giving him a little more room in the area.

The instructions were very easy to follow and well illustrated. I sewed this up in a couple of hours on my serger. The trickiest part is the collar insertion due to the squared lines in front. But if you take your time, pin pin pin, and follow the directions, it comes out perfectly.

The fabric is a grey french terry knit from Fashion Fabrics Club. I didn't want to make anything to heavy or sweater like. We live in the desert and have a very mild winter. Still, the temps do warrant some light jackets from time to time.

My husband loves it and it fits very well. He is 6' 4" and I didn't need to make any changes to the length. Keep that in mind if you make this for someone not so tall. In fact, he mentioned that the sleeve length is a little too long for him so if I make it again, I will be shortening it by about one inch.

Do you sew for your significant others? Do you do it regularly or are there long intervals between garments?

~Jenny

Holiday Sewing Roundup

2019-01-01T12:01:00.:00

2018 was a good year for making. We have settled into our new home in Phoenix. I've developed a good balance between my career and family life and I feel like I have more time for sewing than I have in a long time. I didn't post all my makes, not even half of them but I was fairly productive. I only started keeping track of my makes partway through the year but I tracked 39 items made this year. Not too shabby!

For this first post of 2019, I am bringing to you a round-up of the holiday gifts I made for the kids. I was ambitious, didn't get everything that was planned made. But when you make Christmas gifts for people, you wait until the last minute, right?

For starters, I made these 2 french terry sweatshirts using the Classic Sweatshirt pattern from Peek-a-boo Pattern Shop. I love Peek-a-boo patterns for their wide array of children's patterns for both girls and boys. The patterns are both simple and modern and my kids always love what I make from them. Instructions are very straight forward and well illustrated. The blue floral is from Koshtex on Etsy. The camouflage is from Stylish Fabrics, also on Etsy. I love both of these prints and of course got enough to make myself matching sweatshirts.

Next, are their Christmas outfits. Logan, my son, has been obsessed with The Boss Baby movie and show. Believe it or not, his big gift from Santa this year was a briefcase. So he needed to look the part. I used the Little Gentleman Suit Jacket pattern, again from Peek-a-boo. The suiting is grey pinstripe from Fashion Fabrics Club. The jacket is fully lined AND has welt pockets! How cute is that? I used the free pattern and tutorial from Patterns for Pirates to make a bow tie using the fabric from his sister's dress. The little pocket square is just a small remnant I folded and stuffed in there. The jacket was probably my most complicated garment out of the bunch to make but still not bad! I think an adventurous beginner could go for it.

My daughter's dress is made from a beautiful red plaid from Fabric.com. The little jacket is made from a black polyester shantung, also from Fabric.com. I got the little red rosettes from Hobby Lobby. I used OOP Simplicity 8025, maybe you can find it on Etsy or Ebay if you try. I love the lines of the dress. The bodice is pieced and I cut the main part on the bias to give it a little bit of interest. Nothing much to say about the pattern. It went together smoothly and the little one loves it.

And another one for my daughter is the Little Girl's Skater Dress from Kitschy Coo. A few years ago, the adult version of this dress was all the rage, I made one for myself. A little later, the girls version was published, and I've made a few for Parker so far. This one is a pink floral double brushed polyester from Fabric.com. If you haven't felt DBP yet, you're missing out! This fabric is used to make the infamous pyramid scheme leggings that have a cult following. It is uber soft, stretchy, and rebounds beautifully. This is a cinch to make on the serger.

Are you sick of my kids yet? I'll forgive you because I get sick of them too. That's it for the holiday round-up. That should last them for another year and I can get promptly back to sewing for myself!

~Jenny

Blue Lace Sheath

2018-08-15T14:24:00.:00

I was invited to a Summer evening wedding by a friend and wanted a new dress to wear to the occasion. I've always like the classic sheath dress and settled on New Look 6540 for the pattern.

I opted for the sleeveless version with the lace overlay. I got this beautiful blue cottony lace from Joann Fabrics. Instead of constructing this with the lace as an overlay, I underlined with a blue broadcloth and treated the two fabrics as one. My lace did not have a border scallop, so hemmed the two fabrics as one.

I cut one size smaller than recommended by the pattern. I graded out by 1/4 inch on each side along my abdomen and hips which is where I carry my extra weight.

This was a breeze to make. I had no issues with construction.

I 'm happy with the finished dress. I felt a little like Violet Beauregarde turning into a blueberry at first, but was reassured that it wasn't over the top. Lol!

~Jenny

Wide Legged Pants and a Scout Tee

2018-08-01T19:18:00.:00

I've been loving the wide leg pant look that has been all over Instagram lately. My wardrobe has been in need of new slacks for work and I knew I wanted to add some wide legs to my repertoire.

There are many patterns out there. I went with Simplicity 8605. The pattern features the wide leg pants or capris with an optional tie belt. I used a rayon/poly/lycra fabric from Joann's. I spent about $15 on fabric.

These were extremely easy to make. My favorite pant length is ankle. Because I am petite, I went with the cropped length, knowing that they would end up at the right spot. Other than that, I made no changes.

I wore them for the first time today as pictured to work. I felt a little out of my element because they are so wide but they were well received and I had several compliments. And they are hella comfortable! Seriously, I never want to take them off! I've got another version planned in a tropical linen print, and am considering a pair made out of gray suiting.

Next up is the Grainline Studios Scout Tee pattern. OMG peeps, why have I waited so long? I think this was their first pattern out, what, like 6 years ago?!?! What can I say? I was waiting for the 90th review on PR to come out to convince me to make it already.

I won't bore you with all the nitty gritty as you can go read for yourself. All I will say is that I made the size according to the pattern recommendations. I did make a slight large bicep adjustment. Apparently that's the PC way to say fat upper arms. It sewed up quickly. I've made 2 so far. This one is pictured in a rayon print from Joann's. Spent about $10-15 on this one. The heat in Phoenix right now is brutal. It is nice to have a breathable, breezy top that floats away from the body. Will definitely be making more.

~Jenny

Kielo Wrap Dress

2018-07-24T17:54:00.:00

This dress made me ponder my creativity. When people learn that I sew, I always hear the proverbial "you are so creative"! I don't think I am that creative and this is why sewing works for me. I am very logical, analytical, and work in a career where I use those skills. I'm not one who can come up with a design or concept from scratch. I'm not good with crafty things unless there are directions to follow. I'm great at cooking, because I know how to follow the directions of a recipe. This is what sewing is to me. It's a puzzle of pieces that go together when you follow the directions. The most creative part for me is picking the right fabric, which after 25 years of sewing, is still a challenge sometimes. Sure, it's a creative outlet for me, of sorts, but I'm certainly not coming up with the designs.

Take the Named Kielo Wrap Dress as a perfect example. I loved the lines of this pattern when it came out. And although there are fabric recommendations for the pattern, I could never picture it made in anything other than this semi-sheer knit the model is wearing. I knew this was not the look for me and never gave the pattern another thought. Fortunately, many lovely sewists had more fabric hutzpah than me and made the dress up in lovely, opaque jersey fabrics. Go Google images for the dress or just go to Instagram and you will be in awe of all of the great versions out there.

Once I could picture this dress made up in something other than sheer fabric, I knew I needed it in my life. I chose a green cotton spandex from Girl Charlee fabric. I spent about $7 a yard, and needed about 2.5 yards.

I made the size recommended by the pattern without adjustments. The maxi-length is not for me. I shortened the dress to hit me at the knee and left off the walking vent. I serged the majority of the seams, did what I needed to on my straight-stitch.

I love the darts. Although this is a knit pattern, which tends to conform to your shape, the darts gives it a little more tailoring.

The end result is fabulous. I have worn this every which way. Tied in the front, tied in the back. Out to the grocery store, business casual for work. It travels well. It is "flattering"- don't get me started on that word. I've actually come to despise it because it sends the message that our bodies need to be concealed in order to wear certain things. But if you've got a belly pooch like me or a little extra junk in the trunk, this really does look good!

What about you? Do you consider yourself to be creative or a direction follower? Are you a bit of both?

~Jenny

Off The Shoulder Dress Pattern Review

2018-07-10T20:32:00.:00

The off the shoulder look is everywhere you look this season. From tops, dresses, even swimsuits. I was drawn to McCall's 7543. I love the sleeve variations included in the pattern and it's one that can work for both tops and dresses.

When I came upon this Ikat-ish woven fabric at Joann's, I instantly thought of the off the shoulder dress. This is a cotton/poly chambray with a woven white print. I spent $23 in yardage.

I made a size Large (16-18). I added about an inch to the length. I like my dresses and skirts to hit just below my knees nowadays. Other than this, I didn't make further adjustments.

This went together easily, no hiccups with construction. I would say a confident beginner could hammer this one out.

I love the way this turned out. I like that the entire width of the top and shoulders have elastic. I don't feel like I'm going to have a wardrobe malfunction. I can't stand strapless bras and feel quite comfortable sans a bra on this one. I love the casual, yet special look. It wouldn't look out of place to go to the grocery store, yet still dressy enough for date night! I've already picked out a cute print to make a top version.

~Jenny

Lemon Print Dress

2018-05-23T20:36:00.:00

I have coveted this lemon print fabric after seeing it all over the online sewing community! I got mine from Emma One Sock. It is a cotton sateen with a bit of stretch.

I used New Look 6341. This pattern has princess seams, a pleated skirt and a scooped back. The bodice is lined. I made one size smaller than recommended by the pattern envelope. This went together quickly and I didn't change anything. This cost me about $30.

I love how this turned out! It is fun to wear and I have received many compliments when wearing it!

~Jenny